Outdoor tap against a blurred green background

Small part, big drip

Faucet Repair & Replacement in Newmarket

A drip that costs nothing today adds up over a year, and it keeps wearing the seat it falls on. We rebuild faucets worth saving and replace the ones that are not.

Cartridges, stems and valves for the common brands on hand
Shut-offs replaced if they seep or seize
Traps and supplies swapped while the cabinet is open
Full hot and cold test with dry joints at ten minutes

Cues for faucet repair

A steady drip from the spout after the handle is off.
Water pooling around the base of the faucet or under the sink.
A stiff or wobbly handle, or one that turns too far before closing.
Uneven spray from the aerator or a pull-down hose that leaks at the head.
Shut-off valves under the sink that will not turn.

Fixture job sheet

Tools on the truck: Basin wrench, cartridge pullers, seat wrenches, P-trap kits, braided supplies
Parts we swap: Cartridges, O-rings, stems, aerators, shut-off valves, trap arms and slip nuts
What we look under: The cabinet floor for old stains, the shut-off for seepage, the trap for slow drips
How we prove it: Full hot and cold flow, a filled and drained basin, dry joints after ten minutes

What fails inside the pipe, and why

Most failures come down to a cartridge, ceramic disc or rubber washer that has worn or scaled. The municipal water here leaves mineral that dries on cartridges, which is why a kitchen faucet that gets heavy daily use may stiffen within a few years. Older country homes near Nobleton add well water to the mix, where iron and hardness can wear seals sooner. Under the sink, original multi-turn shut-off valves often seize after years of never being touched.

Bathroom faucets have their own quirks. Pop-up drains built into the faucet body, tight clearances behind vessel sinks and old compression stems in mid-century vanities all change what a repair involves.

On the job: tools, parts and steps

Identify the faucet. Brand, model and cartridge type decide whether a rebuild is possible. Parts for many major brands are easy to find; parts for some no-name faucets are not.
Rebuild or replace. We swap cartridges, seats and O-rings, or remove the old faucet and fit a new one with new supply lines.
Check the valves. A shut-off that will not close is replaced with a quarter-turn valve while the water is already off.
Test for leaks. We run hot and cold, check every connection, and clean up the cabinet.

What decides how big the job gets

A cartridge swap is usually the quickest call we make. Replacement time rises with corroded mounting nuts, tight cabinets, undermount sinks, or valves that have to be replaced. A three-hole deck faucet swapped for a single-hole model also needs a cover plate. Supplying the faucet versus using one you bought changes the total too. A swap of fixture alone generally does not need a permit, but larger changes can; our guide to plumbing permits in Newmarket sets out the line. If a bathroom refresh is coming, folding the faucet into bathroom renovation plumbing saves a second visit.

Shut it off and call, or book it?

A drip can wait for a booked appointment. A faucet base or supply line leaking into the cabinet cannot, because particleboard swells fast. Close the shut-offs under the sink, or the main if they will not turn, and call (365) 517-0623. Kitchen jobs often pair with garbage disposal service if yours is also misbehaving.

Asked on site

Is it cheaper to repair or replace a faucet?

For a good quality faucet with available parts, repair usually wins. For a cheap faucet with a cracked body, replacement makes more sense.

Can I install a faucet I bought online?

Yes. We will install it if it suits your sink, and we will say so honestly if it does not.

Why replace the shut-off valves too?

Old valves often fail to close or start leaking once they are disturbed. Replacing them while the water is already off costs little.