
Our Work ยท Renovations
Bathroom Renovation Plumbing in Newmarket
A beautiful bathroom is only as good as what sits behind the tile. We set the drains, valves and supply lines so the finish work lasts.
- Cartridges, stems and valves for the common brands on hand
- Shut-offs replaced if they seep or seize
- Traps and supplies swapped while the cabinet is open
- Full hot and cold test with dry joints at ten minutes
Cues for bathroom renovation plumbing
- You are moving a toilet, tub or shower to a new spot in the room.
- A tub is coming out and a walk-in shower is going in.
- You want a second sink, a freestanding tub or a body-spray system.
- The old valve or drain is corroded and will not survive new tile.
Fixture job sheet
- Tools on the truck
- Basin wrench, cartridge pullers, seat wrenches, P-trap kits, braided supplies
- Parts we swap
- Cartridges, O-rings, stems, aerators, shut-off valves, trap arms and slip nuts
- What we look under
- The cabinet floor for old stains, the shut-off for seepage, the trap for slow drips
- How we prove it
- Full hot and cold flow, a filled and drained basin, dry joints after ten minutes
What fails inside the pipe, and why
Bathrooms from the 1980s and 1990s were built for a different way of living: one small vanity, a tub-shower combo, and plumbing walls that are just thick enough. Owners renovating now often want larger showers, curbless entries and better ventilation, all of which mean moving drains. Rural and estate homes out toward Ballantrae often have generous bathrooms but well water, which shapes fixture choices; our note on hard water explains why scale matters for rainfall heads and thermostatic valves.
On the job: tools, parts and steps
- Walk-through with you or your contractor. We mark where fixtures go and confirm drain sizes, venting routes and valve heights before any wall comes down.
- Permits. Moving drains and adding fixtures generally needs a plumbing permit from the Town. We arrange what our work requires and schedule inspections.
- Rough-in. New drains and vents are run, supply lines installed and the shower valve set at the right depth for the finished wall.
- Inspection and pressure test. Everything is tested before the walls close.
- Finish. After tile and paint, we return to set the toilet, connect the vanity, trim the valve and check every fixture.
What decides how big the job gets
The number of fixtures moved, the floor structure under them, how far the new drains are from the stack, and the complexity of the shower system are the main factors. Slab-on-grade or concrete floors raise the price. We provide a written plumbing price so you can slot it into your renovation budget.
Details that save headaches later
- An access panel behind a whirlpool tub pump or a shower valve with cartridges that need changing.
- Shut-off valves under every sink and toilet, so one fixture can be isolated without killing water to the house.
- A pressure-balancing or thermostatic shower valve, which protects against scalding when a toilet is flushed elsewhere.
- Floor drains placed at the true low point of a curbless shower, with the slope built into the subfloor.
Shut it off and call, or book it?
Call before demolition, not after. Bringing a plumber in early prevents layouts that look great on paper but cannot drain properly. Reach us at (365) 517-0623. Planning a basement bath instead? See basement bathroom rough-in. Adding a gas fireplace or heated floor during the same project? Ask about gas line installation.
Asked on site
Do you work with my general contractor?
Yes. We coordinate schedules with your contractor or tiler and handle the plumbing portion of the job.
Can a toilet move anywhere in the room?
Not always. The drain needs slope and a vent, and floor joists may get in the way. We check before you commit to a layout.
Who pulls the permit?
We take care of the plumbing permit and inspections for our portion of the work.